Today's Taxidermy Tip - Field Care

Good taxidermy begins with good field care. Taking care of your trophy, whether you are on the lake or in the field, provides you with the best looking mount possible.

• Minimizing damage - Your shot, hook or trap will always cause some type of damage, and when it comes to damage, less is more. You want to damage your trophy just enough to kill it, but don't want to destroy it. If you have taken several animals, such as pintails or pike, pick the one that has the least amount of damage by inspecting wings, legs, fins and looking for any large, gaping holes. If your trophy is missing hair, feathers, scales, fur, legs or eyes in the field, they sure won't be there when you're done with your mount! Taxidermy isn't magic!
  
• Storage - Get your trophy to a freezer or another cool place as soon as possible. This doesn't mean you have to pack up and go home, no siree. Crack another Schmidt, kick back and enjoy another successful take, but remember that if your trophy starts to decompose, you may lose hair, feathers, fur or scales. And those things are irreplaceable - see above. Taxidermy isn't magic! Wrap your fish, birds and small animals in a moist towel then place in two plastic bags before storing in the freezer. For deer, try to secure the trophy in plastic bags as best you can before placing in the freezer. Turkey require the same care - but be careful not to damage those tail feathers! Freezer burn is a serious issue. It too can cause hair, feathers, fur and scales to fall off. Remember - taxidermy isn't magic! Before storage, always remember to clean off as much blood from your trophy as possible.
  
• Photographs - They're not just for making your brother-in-law jealous of your thirty pointer! Photographs ensure the colors used in the painting process are as true-to-life as possible.